:root{
  --choc:#3a2317;
  --choc-2:#553527;
  --choc-3:#2a180f;
  --champ:#e6d3ae;
  --champ-2:#d8c095;
  --cream:#f7f0e4;
  --cream-2:#efe4d0;
  --cream-3:#e9dcc4;
  --plum:#6b4459;
  --plum-d:#553447;
  --copper:#b06a3b;
  --copper-d:#8f4f27;
  --ink:#2b1a11;
  --muted:#6a5445;
  --line:rgba(58,35,23,.18);
  --line-light:rgba(230,211,174,.22);
  --gut:clamp(1rem,4vw,2.5rem);
  --serif:'Cormorant Garamond',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;
  --sans:'Jost',system-ui,-apple-system,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;
}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0;padding:0}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{font-family:var(--sans);background:var(--cream);color:var(--ink);line-height:1.68;font-size:1rem;overflow-x:hidden;min-width:0}
body.lock{overflow:hidden}
img{max-width:100%;display:block;height:auto;background:var(--cream-3)}
a{color:var(--plum)}
a:hover{color:var(--copper-d)}
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--copper);outline-offset:3px}
h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:500;line-height:1.08;color:var(--choc);overflow-wrap:break-word}
p,li,dd,td{overflow-wrap:break-word}
.wrap{width:min(1240px,100% - 2*var(--gut));margin-inline:auto}
.narrow{width:min(820px,100% - 2*var(--gut));margin-inline:auto}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px;top:0;background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream);padding:.6rem 1rem;z-index:200}
.skip:focus{left:1rem;top:1rem}
.kicker{font-size:.74rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--copper-d);font-weight:500}
.section{padding-block:clamp(3.5rem,8vw,7rem)}
.section-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:2rem;align-items:end;margin-bottom:clamp(2rem,5vw,3.5rem)}
.section-head h2{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,5.5vw,4.4rem);letter-spacing:-.01em}
.section-head p{color:var(--muted);max-width:46ch;justify-self:end}
.arch-rule{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1rem;color:var(--copper);margin-block:1rem 2rem}
.arch-rule::before,.arch-rule::after{content:"";height:1px;background:var(--line);flex:1}
.arch-rule span{width:9px;height:9px;border:1px solid currentColor;transform:rotate(45deg);flex:none}

/* Buttons */
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:.55rem;min-height:46px;padding:.7rem 1.35rem;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.78rem;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid var(--choc);background:transparent;color:var(--choc);cursor:pointer;transition:background .3s,color .3s,border-color .3s;text-align:center;line-height:1.2}
.btn-dark{background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream)}
.btn-dark:hover{background:var(--plum);border-color:var(--plum);color:var(--cream)}
.btn-line:hover{background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream)}
.btn-copper{background:var(--copper-d);border-color:var(--copper-d);color:#fff}
.btn-copper:hover{background:var(--choc);border-color:var(--choc);color:var(--cream)}
.btn-ghost{border-color:var(--champ);color:var(--cream)}
.btn-ghost:hover{background:var(--champ);color:var(--choc)}
.btn-sm{min-height:38px;padding:.45rem 1rem;font-size:.72rem}

/* Header */
.site-header{background:var(--cream);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:relative;z-index:30}
.header-inner{height:60px;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1.5rem}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:.55rem;text-decoration:none;color:var(--choc);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.32rem;font-weight:600;min-width:0;white-space:nowrap}
.brand svg{width:28px;height:28px;color:var(--copper);flex:none}
.brand em{font-style:italic;font-weight:500;color:var(--copper-d)}
.brand:hover{color:var(--choc)}
.main-nav{display:flex;gap:2rem;margin-inline:auto}
.main-nav a{text-decoration:none;color:var(--choc);font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;position:relative;padding:.3rem 0}
.main-nav a::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;height:1px;background:var(--copper);transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;transition:transform .35s}
.main-nav a:hover::after,.main-nav a[aria-current="page"]::after{transform:scaleX(1)}
.burger{display:none;width:44px;height:44px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;cursor:pointer;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:6px;flex:none}
.burger span{display:block;width:20px;height:1.5px;background:var(--choc)}
.menu-overlay{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:120;background:var(--choc-3);color:var(--cream);display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:1.2rem var(--gut) 2rem;opacity:0;visibility:hidden;transition:opacity .35s,visibility .35s;overflow-y:auto}
.menu-overlay.open{opacity:1;visibility:visible}
.menu-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;min-height:44px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-light);padding-bottom:1rem}
.menu-top .brand{color:var(--cream)}
.menu-close{width:44px;height:44px;border:1px solid var(--line-light);background:transparent;color:var(--cream);font-size:1.6rem;cursor:pointer;line-height:1}
.menu-overlay nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;margin-top:2rem}
.menu-overlay nav a{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(1.8rem,8vw,2.6rem);color:var(--cream);text-decoration:none;padding:.55rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-light);transform:translateX(-18px);opacity:0;transition:transform .5s,opacity .5s}
.menu-overlay.open nav a{transform:none;opacity:1}
.menu-overlay nav a:nth-child(2){transition-delay:.05s}.menu-overlay nav a:nth-child(3){transition-delay:.1s}.menu-overlay nav a:nth-child(4){transition-delay:.15s}.menu-overlay nav a:nth-child(5){transition-delay:.2s}
.menu-overlay .btn{margin-top:2rem;align-self:flex-start}
.menu-note{margin-top:auto;padding-top:2rem;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--champ)}

/* Hero */
.hero{position:relative;height:clamp(560px,92vh,880px);overflow:hidden;background:var(--choc-3);color:var(--cream);isolation:isolate}
.hero-layer{position:absolute;inset:-6% -3%;will-change:transform;pointer-events:none}
.photo-grand-place-hero{position:absolute;inset:0;background:var(--choc-2) url("images/photo-1559113202-c916b8e44373.png") center 40%/cover no-repeat;filter:blur(14px) saturate(.5) sepia(.45);transform:scale(1.12);animation:focusIn 2.8s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1) .2s forwards}
@keyframes focusIn{to{filter:blur(0) saturate(.85) sepia(.28);transform:scale(1.02)}}
.hero-tint{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:1;background:linear-gradient(100deg,rgba(42,24,15,.88) 0%,rgba(42,24,15,.62) 45%,rgba(58,35,23,.25) 100%),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(42,24,15,.7),transparent 45%)}
.hero-layer svg{position:absolute;left:0;bottom:0;width:100%;height:50%}
.layer-far{z-index:2}.layer-mid{z-index:3}.layer-near{z-index:4}
.layer-far svg{fill:var(--plum);opacity:.45}
.layer-mid svg{fill:var(--choc-2);opacity:.75;height:44%}
.layer-near svg{fill:var(--choc-3);height:30%}
.hero-content{position:relative;z-index:6;height:100%;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;padding-block:3rem 5rem}
.hero .kicker{color:var(--champ)}
.hero h1{color:var(--cream);font-size:clamp(2.8rem,9vw,7.6rem);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:.8rem 0 1.4rem;line-height:.98}
.hero h1 .line{display:block;overflow:hidden;padding-bottom:.06em}
.hero h1 .line span{display:inline-block;opacity:0;animation:slideL 1.3s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1) forwards}
.hero h1 .line.r span{animation-name:slideR}
.hero h1 .line:nth-child(1) span{animation-delay:.5s}.hero h1 .line:nth-child(2) span{animation-delay:.75s}.hero h1 .line:nth-child(3) span{animation-delay:1s}
.hero h1 em{font-style:italic;color:var(--champ)}
@keyframes slideL{from{opacity:0;transform:translateX(-70px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
@keyframes slideR{from{opacity:0;transform:translateX(70px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.hero-deck{max-width:48ch;color:var(--cream-2);font-size:clamp(1rem,1.6vw,1.12rem);opacity:0;animation:fadeUp 1s ease 1.3s forwards}
.hero-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.8rem;margin-top:2rem;opacity:0;animation:fadeUp 1s ease 1.5s forwards}
@keyframes fadeUp{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(16px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.hero-float{position:absolute;right:var(--gut);bottom:clamp(2rem,6vw,4rem);z-index:6;background:rgba(247,240,228,.94);color:var(--choc);padding:1.1rem 1.3rem;border-left:3px solid var(--copper);max-width:250px;animation:floaty 7s ease-in-out infinite}
.hero-float strong{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.5rem;font-weight:500;display:block;line-height:1.1}
.hero-float span{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}
@keyframes floaty{0%,100%{transform:translateY(0)}50%{transform:translateY(-8px)}}

/* Search strip */
.search-strip{position:relative;z-index:8;margin-top:-2.6rem}
.search-form{background:var(--cream);border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 20px 40px -28px rgba(42,24,15,.5);display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.4fr) repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr)) auto;align-items:stretch}
.field{display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:.75rem 1.1rem;border-right:1px solid var(--line);min-width:0}
.field label{font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--copper-d);font-weight:500}
.field input,.field select,.field textarea{font:inherit;font-size:1rem;color:var(--ink);background:transparent;border:0;padding:.3rem 0;width:100%;min-width:0;min-height:36px}
.field select{appearance:none;background-image:linear-gradient(45deg,transparent 50%,var(--copper-d) 50%),linear-gradient(135deg,var(--copper-d) 50%,transparent 50%);background-position:calc(100% - 10px) 55%,calc(100% - 5px) 55%;background-size:5px 5px;background-repeat:no-repeat;padding-right:1.4rem;cursor:pointer}
.field input:focus,.field select:focus{outline:none}
.field:focus-within{background:var(--cream-2)}
.search-form .btn{margin:.6rem;min-width:150px}

/* Category navigation */
.cat-nav{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr));border-top:1px solid var(--choc);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.cat-nav a{display:block;padding:1.8rem 1.4rem 1.6rem;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);border-right:1px solid var(--line);position:relative;transition:background .3s}
.cat-nav a:last-child{border-right:0}
.cat-nav a:hover{background:var(--cream-2)}
.cat-nav .num{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;color:var(--copper-d);font-size:1rem}
.cat-nav strong{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(1.6rem,2.6vw,2.2rem);font-weight:500;color:var(--choc);margin:.3rem 0}
.cat-nav small{color:var(--muted);font-size:.88rem;display:block}
.cat-nav a::after{content:"→";position:absolute;right:1.3rem;top:1.8rem;color:var(--copper);transition:transform .3s}
.cat-nav a:hover::after{transform:translateX(5px)}

/* Horizontal split card (asymmetric) */
.catalogue{display:grid;gap:clamp(3rem,7vw,6rem)}
.hcard{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,7fr) minmax(0,5fr);gap:clamp(1.5rem,4vw,4rem);align-items:start;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.2rem)}
.hcard.flip{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr)}
.hcard.flip .hcard-media{order:2;margin-top:clamp(0rem,4vw,3.5rem)}
.hcard[hidden]{display:none}
.hcard-media{position:relative;display:block;aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden;background:var(--cream-3)}
.hcard-media img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform 1s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}
.hcard:hover .hcard-media img{transform:scale(1.045)}
.hcard-no{position:absolute;left:1rem;top:1rem;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.05rem;background:var(--cream);color:var(--choc);padding:.15rem .7rem;letter-spacing:.05em}
.hcard-panel{padding-top:clamp(0rem,4vw,3.5rem);min-width:0}
.hcard.flip .hcard-panel{padding-top:0}
.hcard h3{font-size:clamp(2rem,4.2vw,3.3rem);margin:.5rem 0 .9rem;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.hcard h3 a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none;background:linear-gradient(var(--copper),var(--copper)) left bottom/0 1px no-repeat;transition:background-size .4s}
.hcard h3 a:hover{background-size:100% 1px}
.hcard-lede{color:var(--muted);max-width:52ch}
.pills{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.45rem;margin:1.2rem 0;list-style:none}
.pills li{border:1px solid var(--copper);color:var(--copper-d);border-radius:999px;padding:.12rem .75rem;font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}
.hcard-meta{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(140px,1fr));border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:1.2rem 0 1.5rem}
.hcard-meta div{padding:.8rem .9rem .8rem 0}
.hcard-meta div+div{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:.9rem}
.hcard-meta dt{font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}
.hcard-meta dd{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.12rem;color:var(--choc);line-height:1.25;margin-top:.15rem}
.hcard-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.7rem}
.hcard-actions .btn{flex:1 1 190px}
.hcard.compact{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,6fr)}
.hcard.compact h3{font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3vw,2.3rem)}
.hcard.compact .hcard-panel{padding-top:0}
.hcard.compact .hcard-media{aspect-ratio:5/4;order:0;margin-top:0}
.related-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:2.5rem}

/* Editorial blocks */
.split-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr);gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,5rem);align-items:start}
.split-intro h2{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,5vw,4rem)}
.cols-2{columns:2 280px;column-gap:3rem;color:var(--muted)}
.cols-2 p{margin-bottom:1rem;break-inside:avoid}
.principles{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));border-top:1px solid var(--choc);margin-top:3rem}
.principles div{padding:1.6rem 1.6rem 1.6rem 0;border-right:1px solid var(--line)}
.principles div+div{padding-left:1.6rem}
.principles div:last-child{border-right:0}
.principles h3{font-size:1.6rem;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.principles p{color:var(--muted);font-size:.95rem}
.band{background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream-2)}
.band h2,.band h3{color:var(--cream)}
.band .kicker{color:var(--champ)}
.note-box{border:1px solid var(--line);border-left:3px solid var(--plum);background:var(--cream-2);padding:1.4rem 1.6rem;font-size:.96rem;color:var(--ink)}
.note-box strong{color:var(--plum-d)}
.band .note-box{background:rgba(247,240,228,.06);border-color:var(--line-light);border-left-color:var(--copper);color:var(--cream-2)}
.band .note-box strong{color:var(--champ)}

/* Filters (hotels page) */
.page-head{padding-block:clamp(2.5rem,6vw,5rem) clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.5rem);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.page-head h1{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,7vw,5.6rem);letter-spacing:-.02em;margin-top:.6rem}
.page-head p{color:var(--muted);max-width:60ch;margin-top:1rem}
.crumbs{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted);display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.4rem}
.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}
.filter-bar{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;padding-block:1.4rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.cat-pills{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem}
.cat-pill{font:inherit;font-size:.75rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;color:var(--choc);padding:.55rem 1rem;min-height:40px;cursor:pointer;border-radius:999px;transition:all .3s}
.cat-pill[aria-pressed="true"],.cat-pill:hover{background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream);border-color:var(--choc)}
.filters{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.4fr) repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream);margin-top:1.8rem}
.filters .field:last-of-type{border-right:0}
.drawer-head,.drawer-foot{display:none}
.filter-toggle{display:none}
.result-count{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted)}
.no-results{padding:3rem 0;text-align:center;color:var(--muted)}
.no-results h3{font-size:2rem;margin-bottom:.5rem}
.drawer-backdrop{position:fixed;inset:0;background:rgba(42,24,15,.5);z-index:90;opacity:0;visibility:hidden;transition:.3s}
.drawer-backdrop.open{opacity:1;visibility:visible}

/* Magazine detail */
.mag-hero{position:relative;min-height:clamp(440px,74vh,760px);display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:var(--cream);overflow:hidden;background:var(--choc-3)}
.mag-hero>img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;animation:magZoom 2.4s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1) forwards;filter:saturate(.85) sepia(.15)}
@keyframes magZoom{from{transform:scale(1.08);filter:blur(6px) saturate(.6) sepia(.3)}to{transform:scale(1);filter:blur(0) saturate(.85) sepia(.15)}}
.mag-hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(42,24,15,.92) 0%,rgba(42,24,15,.45) 50%,rgba(42,24,15,.15) 100%)}
.mag-hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:2;padding-block:3rem clamp(2.5rem,5vw,4rem)}
.mag-hero .crumbs,.mag-hero .crumbs a{color:var(--champ)}
.mag-hero .kicker{color:var(--champ);margin-top:1.2rem;display:block}
.mag-hero h1{color:var(--cream);font-size:clamp(2.8rem,9vw,7.2rem);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:.5rem 0 1rem;animation:slideL 1.2s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1) .3s both}
.mag-hero .deck{max-width:56ch;font-size:clamp(1rem,1.8vw,1.2rem);color:var(--cream-2);font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic}
.mag-body{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 330px;gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,4.5rem);align-items:start}
.article h2{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,3.6vw,2.8rem);margin:3rem 0 1rem;padding-top:1.5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.article h2:first-child{margin-top:0}
.article h3{font-size:1.5rem;margin:1.8rem 0 .5rem}
.article p{margin-bottom:1.1rem;color:#3d2a1f;font-size:1.04rem}
.article ul.plain{margin:0 0 1.2rem 1.2rem}
.article ul.plain li{margin-bottom:.4rem}
.dropcap::first-letter{float:left;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:4.8em;line-height:.8;padding:.06em .12em 0 0;color:var(--copper-d)}
.pull{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.2rem);line-height:1.25;color:var(--plum-d);border-top:1px solid var(--choc);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:1.6rem 0;margin:2.2rem 0}
.pull cite{display:block;font-family:var(--sans);font-style:normal;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);margin-top:.8rem}
.facts{position:sticky;top:1.5rem;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream-2);padding:1.6rem}
.facts h2{font-size:1.6rem;margin-bottom:1rem}
.facts dl div{padding:.7rem 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.facts dt{font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}
.facts dd{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.12rem;color:var(--choc);line-height:1.3}
.facts .btn{width:100%;margin-top:1rem}
.facts small{display:block;margin-top:1rem;font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.5}
.gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;grid-auto-rows:clamp(150px,18vw,230px);gap:.7rem;margin:1.5rem 0 1rem}
.g-item{border:0;padding:0;cursor:zoom-in;overflow:hidden;background:var(--cream-3);position:relative;min-width:0}
.g-item img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .8s}
.g-item:hover img{transform:scale(1.05)}
.g-item:first-child{grid-row:span 2}
.g-item:nth-child(4){grid-column:span 2}
.gallery-hint{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}
.amen-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0 2rem;list-style:none;margin:1rem 0 1.5rem}
.amen-grid li{padding:.7rem 0 .7rem 1.5rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:relative}
.amen-grid li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;top:1.2rem;width:7px;height:7px;border:1px solid var(--copper);transform:rotate(45deg)}
.nearby{list-style:none;margin:1rem 0 1.5rem;border-top:1px solid var(--choc)}
.nearby li{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;padding:.8rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.nearby span:last-child{color:var(--copper-d);font-size:.9rem;white-space:nowrap}
.pros-cons{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:1.5rem;margin:1rem 0}
.pros-cons>div{border-top:3px solid var(--copper);padding-top:1rem}
.pros-cons>div+div{border-top-color:var(--plum)}
.pros-cons ul{margin-left:1.1rem}
.pros-cons li{margin-bottom:.45rem}
.mobile-cta{display:none}

/* Lightbox */
.lightbox{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:150;background:rgba(26,15,9,.95);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:4rem 1rem;opacity:0;visibility:hidden;transition:.3s}
.lightbox.open{opacity:1;visibility:visible}
.lightbox figure{max-width:min(1100px,100%);max-height:100%;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center}
.lightbox img{max-height:75vh;width:auto;max-width:100%;object-fit:contain;background:transparent}
.lightbox figcaption{color:var(--champ);font-size:.9rem;margin-top:.8rem;text-align:center}
.lightbox button{position:absolute;background:rgba(247,240,228,.1);color:var(--cream);border:1px solid var(--line-light);width:48px;height:48px;font-size:1.6rem;cursor:pointer;line-height:1}
.lb-close{top:1rem;right:1rem}
.lb-prev{left:1rem;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}
.lb-next{right:1rem;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}

/* Legal & contact */
.legal{padding-block:clamp(2.5rem,6vw,4.5rem)}
.legal h2{font-size:clamp(1.6rem,3vw,2.2rem);margin:2.6rem 0 .8rem;padding-top:1.2rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.legal h3{font-size:1.3rem;margin:1.4rem 0 .4rem}
.legal p,.legal li{color:#3d2a1f;margin-bottom:.9rem}
.legal ul{margin-left:1.2rem}
.legal .updated{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted)}
.ctable{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin:1rem 0 1.5rem;font-size:.92rem}
.ctable th,.ctable td{text-align:left;padding:.75rem .7rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
.ctable th{font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--copper-d);border-bottom:1px solid var(--choc);font-weight:500}
.contact-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,7fr) minmax(0,5fr);gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,4rem);align-items:start}
.cform{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream)}
.cform .field{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.cform .field.full{grid-column:1/-1;border-right:0}
.cform .field:nth-child(2){border-right:0}
.cform textarea{resize:vertical;min-height:140px}
.cform .field.invalid{background:rgba(107,68,89,.08)}
.cform .err{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--plum-d);min-height:1.1em}
.cform .form-foot{grid-column:1/-1;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:1rem;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:1rem 1.1rem}
.consent{display:flex;gap:.6rem;align-items:flex-start;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted);max-width:44ch}
.consent input{width:20px;height:20px;accent-color:var(--copper-d);flex:none;margin-top:.15rem}
.form-status{grid-column:1/-1;padding:0 1.1rem 1rem;font-size:.92rem;color:var(--plum-d)}
.counter{font-size:.75rem;color:var(--muted);text-align:right}
.info-card{border-top:3px solid var(--copper);padding-top:1.2rem;margin-bottom:2rem}
.info-card h2{font-size:1.8rem;margin-bottom:.6rem}
.info-card address{font-style:normal;line-height:1.8}
.map-frame{position:relative;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:.6rem;background:var(--cream-2)}
.map-frame iframe{display:block;width:100%;height:320px;border:0;filter:grayscale(1) sepia(.55) contrast(.95)}
.map-frame span{position:absolute;top:1.2rem;left:1.2rem;background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream);font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:.3rem .6rem}

/* Footer */
.site-footer{background:var(--choc-3);color:var(--champ);padding-block:clamp(3rem,6vw,5rem) 2rem;margin-top:0}
.foot-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.5fr repeat(3,1fr) 1.3fr;gap:2rem;padding-bottom:2.5rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-light)}
.site-footer .brand{color:var(--cream)}
.site-footer .brand em{color:var(--champ-2)}
.foot-brand p{font-size:.9rem;margin-top:1rem;color:var(--cream-3);max-width:34ch}
.site-footer h2{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--champ-2);margin-bottom:1rem;font-weight:500}
.site-footer nav a{display:block;color:var(--cream-2);text-decoration:none;font-size:.92rem;padding:.25rem 0}
.site-footer nav a:hover,.site-footer address a:hover{color:var(--champ)}
.site-footer address{font-style:normal;font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.75;color:var(--cream-2)}
.site-footer address a{color:var(--cream-2)}
.foot-note{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--cream-3);padding-block:1.6rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-light)}
.copyright{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--champ-2);padding-top:1.4rem}

/* Cookie banner */
.cookie-banner{position:fixed;left:50%;bottom:1rem;z-index:110;width:min(980px,100% - 2rem);transform:translate(-50%,140%);background:var(--choc);color:var(--cream-2);border:1px solid var(--line-light);box-shadow:0 20px 50px -20px rgba(0,0,0,.6);padding:1.2rem 1.4rem;transition:transform .5s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}
.cookie-banner.show{transform:translate(-50%,0)}
.cookie-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:1rem 1.5rem;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between}
.cookie-row p{font-size:.9rem;flex:1 1 320px}
.cookie-row p a{color:var(--champ)}
.cookie-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem}
.cookie-prefs{display:none;margin-top:1rem;padding-top:1rem;border-top:1px solid var(--line-light);gap:.6rem;flex-direction:column}
.cookie-prefs.open{display:flex}
.cookie-prefs label{display:flex;gap:.7rem;align-items:flex-start;font-size:.88rem}
.cookie-prefs input{width:20px;height:20px;accent-color:var(--copper);flex:none;margin-top:.1rem}

/* Reveal */
.js .reveal{opacity:0;transform:translateY(26px);transition:opacity .9s ease,transform .9s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}
.js .reveal.in{opacity:1;transform:none}

/* Responsive */
@media (max-width:1100px){
  .foot-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .foot-brand{grid-column:1/-1}
  .mag-body{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 290px}
}
@media (max-width:900px){
  .main-nav,.header-cta{display:none}
  .burger{display:flex;margin-left:auto}
  .header-inner{height:52px}
  .section-head{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .section-head p{justify-self:start}
  .search-form{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .search-form .field:first-child{grid-column:1/-1;border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .search-form .field:nth-child(3){border-right:0}
  .search-form .btn{grid-column:1/-1}
  .cat-nav{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .cat-nav a:nth-child(2){border-right:0}
  .cat-nav a:nth-child(-n+2){border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .split-intro,.contact-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .principles{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .principles div,.principles div+div{border-right:0;padding:1.4rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .mag-body{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .facts{position:static}
  .hero-float{display:none}
  .related-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  /* Filter drawer */
  .filter-toggle{display:inline-flex}
  .cat-pills{display:none}
  .filters{position:fixed;top:0;right:0;bottom:0;width:min(380px,88vw);z-index:100;margin:0;grid-template-columns:1fr;align-content:start;border:0;border-left:1px solid var(--line);transform:translateX(100%);transition:transform .4s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1);overflow-y:auto;box-shadow:-20px 0 40px -20px rgba(0,0,0,.4)}
  .filters.open{transform:none}
  .filters .field{border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .drawer-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding:1rem 1.1rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--choc)}
  .drawer-head h2{font-size:1.6rem}
  .drawer-head button{width:44px;height:44px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;font-size:1.5rem;cursor:pointer;color:var(--choc)}
  .drawer-foot{display:flex;gap:.6rem;padding:1.1rem}
  .drawer-foot .btn{flex:1}
}
@media (max-width:860px){
  .hcard,.hcard.flip,.hcard.compact{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .hcard.flip .hcard-media{order:0;margin-top:0}
  .hcard-panel,.hcard.flip .hcard-panel{padding-top:0}
  .hcard-media{aspect-ratio:16/11}
  body.has-mcta{padding-bottom:78px}
  .mobile-cta{display:flex;position:fixed;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;z-index:80;background:var(--cream);border-top:1px solid var(--choc);padding:.65rem var(--gut);align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:.8rem;box-shadow:0 -10px 30px -20px rgba(42,24,15,.6)}
  .mobile-cta span{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.15rem;color:var(--choc);min-width:0;overflow:hidden;text-overflow:ellipsis;white-space:nowrap}
  .mobile-cta .btn{flex:none;min-height:44px}
  .has-mcta .cookie-banner{bottom:86px}
}
@media (max-width:640px){
  .hero{height:auto;min-height:600px}
  .hero-content{padding-block:3.5rem 6.5rem}
  .search-strip{margin-top:-1.8rem}
  .search-form{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .search-form .field{border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .search-form .btn{margin:.7rem}
  .cat-nav{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .cat-nav a{border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .cat-nav a:last-child{border-bottom:0}
  .hcard-meta{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .hcard-meta div+div{border-left:0;padding-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
  .gallery{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));grid-auto-rows:140px}
  .g-item:first-child{grid-column:1/-1;grid-row:span 1;}
  .g-item:nth-child(4){grid-column:span 1}
  .amen-grid,.pros-cons{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .foot-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}
  .cform{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .cform .field{border-right:0}
  .ctable thead{display:none}
  .ctable,.ctable tbody,.ctable tr,.ctable td{display:block;width:100%}
  .ctable tr{border-bottom:1px solid var(--choc);padding:.5rem 0}
  .ctable td{border:0;padding:.35rem 0}
  .ctable td::before{content:attr(data-label);display:block;font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--copper-d)}
  .cookie-actions .btn{flex:1 1 auto}
  .nearby li{flex-direction:column;gap:.1rem}
}
@media (max-width:380px){
  .brand{font-size:1.08rem}
  .brand svg{width:24px;height:24px}
  .foot-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .btn{padding:.65rem 1rem;letter-spacing:.1em}
  .mobile-cta span{font-size:1rem}
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  *,*::before,*::after{animation-duration:.01ms!important;animation-delay:0s!important;transition-duration:.01ms!important}
  .hero h1 .line span,.hero-deck,.hero-actions{opacity:1}
  .js .reveal{opacity:1;transform:none}
}